Cheerful, persistent, friendly, active, unconventional. I try to live my dreams!
I try to be an all-round climber but I am the best at the high altitude where I did two first winter ascents of Gasherbrum. I and Broad Peak and climbed three other eight-thousanders: K2, Makalu and Gasherbrum II (through west face). I prefer light-weight approaches with minimum equipment and within a small team. Staying alive after climbing for over 25 years in various places on five continents is the highlight of my career second only to the possibility of helping others in danger in the mountains here and there.
Chess, books, music, food, gravel biking, paragliding, skydiving, sailing, scuba diving, ultramarathons.
Greatest Mountain Moment:
Standing on the summit of K2 when I knew that just eleven months earlier I had been going on my first 8000 and I was already on my third. Furthermore, all of them were major ascents done in a good style.
Technical climbing in wild areas, exploration, establishing a new route alpine style on an eight-thousander, winter no-O2 - K2 ascent in a lightweight style.
"Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna" - Lionel Terray
"Ender's Game" - Orson Scott Card
"The Idiot" - Fyodor Dostoevsky
To become an old Himalayan climber ;-)
Favourite BLACKYAK Product:
Mountain Shemagh Hood - "It was worth doing seven prototypes even though the sixth one was the finall in the end ;-)" I simply love the result - this hood is useful to me everywhere from winter biking to the summits of eightousanders.