Colorado – In the Paradise of Ice and Mixed Climbing

Ice Climbing in Colorado – A Dream Come True

Colorado – a place considered by many ice climbers as the mecca of the sport. Names like the famous amphitheater in Vail or the Ouray Ice Park have fascinated me for a long time. This year, I finally had the chance to turn this dream into reality. My sponsor Hdry was looking for an athlete to represent their technology at the Ouray Ice Festival – one of the most legendary ice climbing events in the world – and introduce participants of the “Ice Clinics” to the art of ice climbing. At the same time, I wanted to make the most of my trip and had been training intensively since the end of October for the UIAA competition at the Ouray Ice Park, one of the most prestigious ice climbing competitions.

Journey to the Heart of Ice Climbing

Traveling to this climbing paradise is no easy feat. After 30 hours of travel, from Bergamo through New York to Denver and finally to Montrose, I finally had my ice tools in hand – ready for the first adventure. As soon as I arrived, I went straight to the legendary Bridal Veil Fall with ice climbing legend Jeff Mercier.

This impressive waterfall was first ascended in 1976 by Jeff Lowe – a historic climbing achievement, considering the equipment available at the time. Instead of ergonomic ice tools, climbers used 70 cm long, straight ice axes, and instead of today’s reliable ice screws, they relied on Snargs – metal tubes with fastening loops that were hammered in and then screwed into place. A fascinating insight into the history of this sport.

The Competition at Ouray Ice Park

After a few days of nervous anticipation and some spectacular climbs in the Ice Park, the competition was finally here. I had to start as the second climber early in the morning – not exactly ideal, but in the end, my results probably wouldn’t have changed much.

Most participants failed at the same artificial hook on an overhanging wooden structure. Competition ice climbing is vastly different from traditional ice climbing: The structures are largely artificial, with tiny plastic hooks or stone holds. Precision is key – the holes for the ice tools are extremely small, and even the slightest misplacement leads to slipping and falling. Crampons can be placed anywhere, but the handholds are predefined. The scoring system is based on the number of successfully reached “hooks,” and the time is strictly limited – in this case, seven minutes to climb as high as possible.

Mixed Climbing in Vail – A Touch of History

After the ice festival, I traveled to Vail, a place where climbing history has been made. Here, you can find the traces of countless first ascents that have left their mark on the rock. One of the most impressive routes is Octopussy, a masterpiece by Jeff Lowe, who first ascended it in 1994 with the equipment available at the time – using rusty pitons and some daring Figure-4 moves.

The route The Fang particularly impressed me. It is the tallest free-standing ice column I have ever climbed – a majestic formation rising in the heart of Vail’s massive amphitheater. During these days, I was able to climb some of the most breathtaking lines imaginable.

An Unforgettable Adventure

This trip was more than just an expedition – it was a journey into the history of ice climbing and an opportunity to take on some of the most iconic routes in the world. Ouray, Vail, and Bridal Veil Fall represent everything that makes this sport so special: challenge, history, and pure fascination.

Colorado not only helped me grow as an athlete but also showed me how closely the past and future of ice climbing are connected. And one thing is for sure: I will be back!